Smiling for Days.

Thunk. Another solid placement. Pull. Feet up. Kick, kick. Thunk. I look right. A dim orange glow lights the “V” of the pass. Clear twilight skies freshen the oncoming darkness. I notice the first star twinkle. I'm in control, comfortable and I smile. What a ridiculous situation to be in. 30m up Cascade on Craig y Rhaeadr after work with the onset of darkness approaching. I soak it all in. I know this is special. Its been a good few days.

Twilight from Cascade.

***

Last week Paul Headland who I met on the BMC International Meet got in touch wanting to know what conditions were like in Wales and if I was free towards the end of the week. Luckily I was and we headed to the Black Ladders on Thursday.

I've never seen the Ladders in winter before and of course the first thing that struck me was the obvious gully. Took the guide out to find it was Western Gully, first ascent J. Brown, its now on my list. Spin drift was dumping down it so we headed right with an eye on Icefall Gully. I think we ended up on a route called ATC. Good to shit ice lead into a mixed corner where I struggled to find a belay before I dug out a good crack. Minimal gear had Paul up the second pitch and easy ground and some snow swimming lead to the top. We were back at the car for half three and there was a slight feeling that we should try and get more out of the day but we decided to rest up.

Good ice turning to shit ice. Photo: Paul Headland.

On Friday we headed up to Cwm Hetiau and I climbed The Flying Scotsman. I even got sunburnt! Paul's friend Jim and myself then headed up Railway Gully which was pretty boring. We seemed to just be running out 60m stretches at a time and the angle was constant. The walk off was long and I managed to fall through some banked out snow into the only hole on the mountain!

Cwm Hetiau.

There were some climbing superstars in town over the weekend and I heard that Cascade was in condition. I was interested. Why not give it a go? I texted Will and he was free after work on Monday too, game on.

Cascade is the line on the right.

It was a smooth ascent, finished in the dark. I got bad hotaches, I can live with that. 

Will heading up steep ice to the top.

***

When I think of the climbing and the views and the position I still smile, I haven’t stopped for days.

Smiling for days!