Well the trip to
Fairhead got cancelled last minute. Gutted. I probably wasn't fit
enough to make the most of it anyway. It would be more gutting if I
didn't live where I do. Still lots of rock and routes for me to get
on with over here! Not a bad situation to be in. My hip is still
fucked from the mountain marathon in Scotland and my ankle is
sensitive but it can deal with a bit of discomfort. Luckily this
hasn't affected my climbing too much and I've got a lot done the last
few weeks.
First route was
straight off the train from Scotland the other week, I followed
Helena up Centerfold at Roscolyn. Helena's defiantly on form at the
minute. We got started just after 7. She cruised it and finished
before dark! A great effort as the route seems tricky to read. I had
a mare getting up it with a swollen ankle I couldn't weight and a
very tired body. I managed to get to the top eventually with most of
the gear back. Lovely clear star lit skies at the coast made it worth
it.
I forced myself to rest
for a few days which didn't work. I took the bike out for a 30 mile
loop after work. Ended up freezing because I was going so slow! I
crashed for about 11 hours after that and woke up at 7 the next
morning. I knew I shouldn't climb. I hadn't arranged to. "Everyone
will already be sorted for the day" I tried to convinced myself,
"that's a good thing, rest." It was a lovely day. By 9 I
had texted everyone in my phone book. I felt better. Ben replied
saying he was free. I threw some gear together. I hate wasting a
sunny day in North Wales!
We cycled down the pass
with not much in mind. Craig Ddu which is nearly always sopping wet
was dry! It also involved the shortest walk and the least uphill
cycling. Ben pointed me at a wall with a route called Sea Panther on
it. I racked up and pulled onto the wall. The climbing felt really
good. The odd quartz feature nice positive holds. The gear was a
little spaced in spots but with the holds and moves never felt bold.
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| Adding a splash of colour to the Black Crag! |
Canol was next on the
cards and after some debate about where it started I headed up. The
first pitch was easy climbing but only had a couple of novelty wires
in 20m! Ben shot up the main pitch and then got himself slightly
lost, wandering around the easy ground for a bit trying to remember
if it went left or right. Back on the ground I had to call it a day.
My ankle was starting to swell. Not to bad for a rest day though!
I did force myself to
rest for 2 days but by the Sunday I was dying to get out again. Owen
agreed to take me to Tremadog after work so I could get on Falcon and
hopefully there'd be enough time for him to look at Vulcan. Tourists
driving at 30 mph all the way to Tremadog meant it took a while to
get there. Eventually we located the bottom of the route. Owen didn't
really want to do the first chossy pitch so I headed up to do it in
one.
I went slightly right
to a ledge and realised I was at the wrong one. I need to be on the
left to start. I put a wire in and climbed back down and across to
the right spot. Then I realised that the rope on the right would be
useless for the route unless I could swing it around the roofs from
higher up. Start located I pulled through the first overhang and got
some good gear. A few pulls later I could see the peg in the groove
and I was pumped! I made it to the peg and bridged in the groove. My
calfs were burning. I hadn't recovered from the mountain marathon at
all. I couldn't figure out what to do next. For a split second I
considered lowering off there. "Don't be an idiot. If you're
coming off this route you're falling off!" I told myself. I
ignored my legs, they might be sore but they weren't going to come
off. I felt out a hand hold and moved a foot slightly higher. I
rocked my weight onto it in the corner and stood up. I did the same
with my other foot. Progress! I fiddled a tiny cam into a crack and
continued painfully slowly up the groove. A small wire went in and I
finally made it to the good foot ledge before the move right. I stuck
a few small wires in the horizontal crack and removed a lower one in
case I couldn't sort the right hand rope out.
I peered around the
arête. I could see the foothold. I reached out with my right foot
and slowly rocked out. My right hand went in search of something to
help and a good edge had me around pretty easily. Luckily the other rope came to so I wouldn't have to deal with mega rope drag. The crack continued
above. At each bulge I got progressively more pumped getting around.
Finally the top was in sight. A few moves and I would be there. I
tried to go right around the top bulge. A foot popped. I retreated to
the rest shaking. "Relax! You’re not fucking blowing this
onsight!" I looked to the large crack on the left. From an
undercut I reached across and pinched it. I kicked my feet to the
wall on the left and laybacked up the crack, arse hanging in space. I
was pumped! I managed to get into a secure position. One more move. I
just need to get my foot in the crack! I was exhausted. I pulled and
dropped my knee in! I rested there for about 5 minutes adrenalin
rushing, then topped out. Two and a half hours! Its the longest I've
ever spent on a route and not fallen off!
There wasn't enough
time for Owen to get on Vulcan so I abbed and stripped the route. Of
course the ropes got stuck and I spent 50 min wondering around the
top of the crag trying to find them. Luckily I did just before dark!
Happy days!
A wet week followed so
I stuck to the attic. Thursday came round and it was back to Tremadog
with Emma and Ritch. We wandered up Merlin Direct. I got to lead the
top pitch which defiantly has some good climbing. Emma then went off
with Rich to do Vector. Its a route I'm saving for later in the year.
I wandered down to Eric's Café and had a chat with Eric for a bit.
What a legend!
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| Emma heading off up the first pitch of Merlin Direct. |
The next 2 evenings
were spent on Jerry's roof and Bus Stop. I've started working them as
a bad weather option. That move to the pocket still feels miles away.
Sophie will have it soon I reckon!
Sunday after work had
me up to the Grochan with Helena. I decided to push the boat out a
bit and get on SS Special. I found the ledge before the top moves
very accommodating. So much so I must have re-visited it about 5
times before commiting to the move left. Once out there I kept
pulling up on the left! Some terrifying slopeyness had me too far out
left and I continued to the top. I'll have to go back and do the
route again for the tick. A bit annoying!! Helena then did Slape Direct a
nice steep crack line.
Yesterday it was back
to Tremadog with Sheila. I did Fang which I've wanted to do for a
while. Once I figured the move out and left on pitch two I headed up
the slabby ground above. Brilliant climbing. Really enjoyable and
totally run out. Defiantly not a place to come off. I couldn't help
wondering as I placed an rp if Joe even got any gear in on the first
ascent! I then followed Sheila up Carlo and Grim Wall Direct. 15 min
down the road from the crag we drove into the rain. The different
micro climates never cease to amaze me around here!
I'm currently wrecked.
My arms feel dead and my back and shoulders are sore. Its a good way
to be. I feel like I'm making some progress for once. I just hope
the weather clears up. I'm heading out bouldering later!
